With our path to the north blocked by the vast Vatnajökull ice cap, to the south by the Atlantic Ocean and with a single road to choose from, we weren’t exactly embarrassed by our wealth of direction options for our second day in Iceland. It was either east or west. Although we were only 24…

There have probably been more pleasant introductions to a country. As the sliding doors at Iceland’s Keflavík airport parted, and before we had placed a foot outside, gale force winds and driving rain attacked us from out of the darkness and threatened to send us tumbling back to the hire car desk. This wasn’t the…